Jewelry Metals Explained
What is the Difference Between Argentium, Sterling Silver, and Plated Silver?
When looking to purchase jewelry there are usually many options on the material that each piece is made of. This can be overwhelming and make it more difficult to select a piece. In this article, we are going to discuss the differences between Argentium, sterling silver, and plated silver.
Argentium
Argentium is a brand of modern tarnish-resistant silver containing either 93.5% or 96% silver. This alloy replaces some of the copper that is in traditional sterling silver. It has recently gained popularity and is considered a fairly new alloy. It has been said that Argentium is the most important development of silverwork in the last couple of centuries. Argentium is a type of sterling silver and comes in a variety depending on the purity of the silver involved.
Argentium sterling silver defies expectations by being closer to pure silver in makeup, yet much more durable than even sterling silver. This makes it the perfect alloy to stand up to the daily wear and tear for that favorite piece of jewelry experience.
The idea behind Argentium was to create a sterling silver that is resistant to firestain. Firestain is what happens when the copper oxidizes in the sterling silver. With Argentium, the germanium selectively oxidizes before the copper, which is what prevents the fire scale from forming.
The biggest difference between Argentium silver and sterling silver is in the working of the metal. Most people wouldn’t be able to tell the difference with the naked eye.
Sterling Silver
Sterling silver is easily understood in the sense that it is nearly 100% silver. It is a common material that most have heard of before. Silver is an active metal and it easily chemically reacts with sulfur in the air thus creating a silver sulfide and turning it black. Generally, sterling silver refers to silver with a content of 92.5% to 99% content of silver and the other 7% is usually a blend of other metal alloys like a combination of copper and zinc.
Sterling Silver will tarnish over time by simple air exposure. Often sterling silver is aged by artists to give it an antique look. Sterling silver has a softer finish and is less durable than Argentium.
Silver Plated
Silver-plated jewelry is just as its name suggests, it is plated in silver. This means that the bulk of the piece is made with some other metals like copper or zinc. Meaning there is only a thin layer of silver on the outside. This changes the value of the piece. Generally, a silver-plated piece will weigh more than a sterling silver piece because contains more of the other metal materials which are heavier than silver.
Which material is best?
Only you as the buyer can decide which material is best for you. The decision is based on preference, price point, and overall style and look you are trying to obtain.
There is almost no difference in the appearance of Argentium, sterling silver, and silver-plated jewelry. Silver-plated jewelry will be slightly lighter in color than sterling silver but this will be hard to spot for the average person.
There is an obvious price difference between the three with the silver-plated jewelry falling at the cheapest price point. In addition, each material has different durabilities, care instructions, and sustainability.
Pure Gold vs. 14k Gold Filled vs. Plated Gold
When looking to purchase a piece of gold jewelry there are some things to consider. There are three main varieties you would be looking at: pure gold, gold-filled, and gold-plated. Each of these comes with its own pros and cons including price, value, and durability. Oftentimes when referring to pure gold you are still looking at gold alloy because pure gold is simply too soft for jewelry making.
Pure Gold
Pure gold jewelry is going to have the highest price point of the three options. The purity of gold is measured in karats ranging from 10k to 24k, with 24k gold being the purest. It is also going to be the softest metal, making 24k gold, not the ideal gold for everyday wear due to its durability. Due to the softness of pure gold, it is oftentimes mixed with other metals in a process called alloying to make it stronger. Yellow gold is usually mixed with copper or silver to retain its luster while increasing its durability. Pure gold will never tarnish and will hold its value over time.
14k Gold Filled
Gold-filled jewelry falls in between pure gold and gold-plated jewelry. Gold-filled jewelry contains a substantial layer of gold alloy that is bonded to the jeweler's metal. Due to the level of pressure and heat needed to bond the gold alloy to the jeweler’s metal, it makes a piece of jewelry that is more valuable and durable for wearing compared to gold-plated jewelry.
Gold-filled jewelry has 100x more gold alloy than gold-plated jewelry. To make gold-filled pieces, the core metal is sandwiched between two layers of gold alloy which is then heated and passed through a roller several times - a process that both bonds the metals together and thins the sheet out. (Hinesley)
14k Gold Plated
Gold-plated jewelry is the least expensive, least durable, and contains the least amount of gold measuring in at about .05%. Gold-plated jewelry consists of a base metal such as zinc, copper, nickel, or brass that is negatively charged by transmitting electrical current through water and metal salt.
The negatively charged base metal attracts and bonds with the positively charged gold molecules, creating a thin layer of gold over the metal. But this layer can be rubbed off with wear and time, showing the other metal peeking through it. (“Gold vs. Gold Plated: Differences, Pros and Cons, and More”)
Gold-plated jewelry is easier to scratch off the gold layer and expose the base metal, in turn making gold-plated pieces prone to tarnishing. Gold-plated jewelry is better seen as costume jewelry for occasional wear and would not hold up well to be purchased as a high-quality piece to wear daily.
Pure Rose Gold vs. Filled Rose Gold vs. Plated Rose Gold
To understand the difference between filled rose gold and plated rose gold you must first understand what rose gold is and how it is made. Rose Gold is a gold-copper alloy, which means it is comprised of both metals gold and copper. The more copper that the metal contains the redder the gold is going to be.
Typically rose gold is more expensive than yellow gold or white gold due to it being a rare metal and is generally viewed as more valuable because of the rose color. Rose gold is viewed as one of the most romantic of golds due to its pinkish color. It is also considered to be very durable due to the copper that is used to make up the rose gold alloy. Rose gold will not tarnish but it will darken over the years.
Rose gold is made of real gold, even if it isn't 100% gold. The higher the karat amount in the piece of jewelry will indicate the purity of gold in the piece. For example, 18 karat gold is 75% gold, while 14 karat gold would have 58% gold. (“Designer Jewelry | Artisan Jewelry | Roma Jewelry”)
Filled Rose Gold vs. Plated Rose Gold
The main difference between filled and plated rose gold is the process in which the gold is applied to the base metal. Although solid and filled rose gold are high quality, durable, and requires very little maintenance, plated rose gold does not offer these same qualities. Filled jewelry pieces will contain more gold and be more durable than plated pieces. Plated pieces of jewelry will only contain a very thin layer of gold over the top of the base metal. This layer is so thin that everyday wear is not recommended for plated jewelry because it will scratch and easily chip off the rose gold plating leaving the base metal exposed.
Rose gold plating typically only lasts about 2-3 years and that depends on the amount of time it is worn. Plated jewelry also typically begins to wear unevenly leaving your jewelry looking spotted and tarnished in some areas. This happens because the copper reacts with the chemicals in the air, water, and even beauty products which causes the copper to erode and change colors.
Plated jewelry pieces are less expensive and equally beautiful. Although these pieces will not last past a few years there are some things you can do to make your piece last longer.
Avoid wearing the rose gold plated jewelry in swimming pools and the ocean. Both chlorine and salt water will wear down the rose gold plating extremely quickly.
Remove your jewelry often and wipe it down. The sweat and oils that your skin produces can react with the chemicals in rose gold plating and cause it to wear away.
Take the jewelry off when you sleep and when you work out at the very least, and always put it on after you have already applied perfume, lotion, or creams. Gently wipe down the jewelry after you remove it to rid it of any residue that could cause it to tarnish.
Works Cited
“?” ? - YouTube, 11 July 2020, https://www.declinko.com/au/blog/silver-plated-vs-sterling-silver.html. Accessed 6 January 2023.
“Argentium sterling silver.” Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Argentium_sterling_silver. Accessed 6 January 2023.
Deschepper, Tahmi. “5 Reasons Why Argentium Is Better Than Sterling Silver.” Tahmi, 17 March 2020, https://tahmi.com/blogs/blog/5-reasons-why-argentium-is-better-than-sterling-silver. Accessed 6 January 2023.
Hall, Jeremy. “Argentium Silver vs Sterling Silver (Which is Better For Silversmithing?).” Rock Seeker -, https://www.rockseeker.com/argentium-silver-vs-sterling-silver/. Accessed 6 January 2023.
“Sterling silver.” Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sterling_silver. Accessed 6 January 2023.
“Gold vs. Gold Plated: Differences, Pros and Cons, and More.” Frost NYC, 28 May 2021, https://www.frostnyc.com/blogs/news/gold-vs-gold-plated-differences-pros-cons. Accessed 13 January 2023.
Hinesley, Janelle. “Gold-Filled vs. Gold-Plated Jewelry.” Halstead Bead, 4 August 2017, https://www.halsteadbead.com/articles/gold-filled-vs-gold-plated. Accessed 13 January 2023.
“Designer Jewelry | Artisan Jewelry | Roma Jewelry.” Designer Jewelry | Artisan Jewelry | Roma Jewelry, https://www.romadesignerjewelry.com/blogs/education/what-is-rose-gold-everything-you-need-to-know-about-this-beautiful-metal. Accessed 19 January 2023.
“Does Rose Gold Tarnish or Fade?” Diamond Nexus, https://www.diamondnexus.com/blog/does-rose-gold-tarnish-or-fade/. Accessed 19 January 2023.